V+S+D :)

You’ve probably already spotted some loincloth-clad men running around town. These men are participants in Fukuoka’s most anticipated annual festival, Hakata Gion Yamakasa. The highlight of the festival kicks off at exactly 4:59 am on July 15 when thousands of men from seven districts race through the streets carrying decorative one-ton floats. But there’s more to Yamakasa than just the main race – read our full guide to find out more, including this year’s schedule and special public transport timetable.

Yamakasa can be traced back 778 years ago to a Buddhist priest named Shoichi Kokushi. In order to eradicate an epidemic, Kokushi was carried on a platform while he prayed and sprinkled holy water. The religious ceremony was held annually to keep the epidemic away, slowly evolving into the festival it is today.

During the Edo era, the festival was held according to the lunar calendar during the first two weeks of June, later being changed to July. It has been held every year since except for a few brief years during the Meiji period and the world wars.

Originally, the tall kazariyama, floats now used only for display, were used as the race floats. With the introduction of power lines, the floats were shortened in 1883 and again in 1910 to accommodate the electric streetcar lines. The placing of dolls on the race floats is a relatively recent practice. Following WWII, there was a shortage of materials with which to decorate the floats. Instead of dolls, a large painted piece of wood was placed on the float. Old kimono sashes made from Hakata textiles were also draped on the floats.

Most Fukuokans are unaware of the enormous work required to prepare for the festival. Numerous meetings and ceremonies are held at Kushida Shrine throughout the year, with the major preparation starting from the first of June. Members from each nagare begin by selecting a theme and constructing their race float with the assistance of one of the famous doll makers. Others solicit donations from individuals and companies in their area. Towards the end of June, others help with erecting tents and setting up tables in each small district.
Each of the seven nagare covers a rather large area, which is then sub-divided into smaller ku or districts, thereby forming the base of an extensive hierarchy. The tents set up in each ku serve as the center of all activities for the length of the festival. Meetings and planning sessions, meals, socializing, drinking, and sometimes even sleeping take place in the close-knit, familial sphere of the tent.

Come July 1, things are in full swing (see event schedule below). On this day and again on July 9 is the Oshioitori, during which members of each nagare run from their home bases to the beginning of the pathway leading to Hakozaki Shrine. Here, the members purify themselves in seawater and gather sand in small baskets which they carry back and sprinkle around the entrance of their homes to purify them. Practice sessions continue until July 14, with the culmination on the morning of July 15. Each of the events serves as a warm-up to get the runners in shape and give the teams time to practice running smoothly and switching position while carrying the one-ton floats.

For the final Oiyama race, all teams carry their floats to the entrance of Kushida Shrine at 3:00 am. The first nagare begins the race at exactly 4:59 am, and has the honor of stopping mid-way through their swing through Kushida Shrine grounds to sing the song “Iwaimedeta”. Following that, the next six teams begin in five minute intervals.

The four people riding on the float, called dai-agari, have the responsibility of directing the runners to change positions. Using a red baton (teppo), they point out individual runners who should make room for the fresh runners. If the runner doesn’t see the baton, he may get a rap on the head or shoulder. Carrying the float takes such an enormous effort that even the strongest runners do not last for more than three or four minutes at a time. Typically they will rotate in three or four times during the course of the race.

Colored tenugui or headbands distinguish the ranks of the runners.The following three colors are standardized throughout the seven nagare: red designates strong, young runners with responsibility for carrying the float; red and white designates elders responsible for planning and logistics; blue and white designates elders responsible for health and safety.

In addition, each nagare also has other colors to distinguish the ranks of other runners. There are also four other types of runners who wear woven-colored cloth ropes around their chests to indicate their special roles: red designates the right to ride on the float; blue designates hanadori (steerers), who control the float using ropes tied to each of the four corners; green designates runners who direct traffic; yellow designates runners who clear a path for their float. They also watch out for the children, some of whom carry itamanekibata, banners with the nagare‘s name.